Some sites have Quick Acceleration kits that are only -1 in the front....other sites have kits that are -1+2 but both clam to be quick acceleration kits  i know the -1 in the front changes the ratio and the -1+2 lowers the powerband. just wondering what you guys/gals think before i buy.

"Quick acceleration" is just the fancy name they give them to sell products: and it works. I am no expert on this, and I know someone will answer with more knowledge, but it all comes down to your preference. I have a -1+1 and I think it is perfect. I have a friend with -1+2. if he was my size he would be quicker, but because he weighs more we are about equal. just dont up too many or you will loose a lot of top speed. I lost about 11 with my -1+1. I now top out at 149

I had a 1+2 on my R1 for a minute. I ride a lot on the street and the 1+2 kit raised the RPM's too much for me and messed up my speedo its also not all that much quicker off the line. Maybe if this is for a track bike it would be a good choice.

Its just gearing ratios, going down 1 in the front is the same as going up 2 in the rear (give or take). You will burn through your gears faster and start decreasing your top speed, but you will end up with more torque for acceleration. i went from about 170 to 150 as a top speed on a 600 with just one down in the front. When my speedo says 80mph I am doing 75. Stunt rider love this because they can wheelie much easier. You change it too much anf you will have a hard time keeping your front end down when you goose it. Its all just person preference.

Quote from: weavefish on June 25, 2008, 09:44:26 PM
Some sites have Quick Acceleration kits that are only -1 in the front....other sites have kits that are -1+2 but both clam to be quick acceleration kits  i know the -1 in the front changes the ratio and the -1+2 lowers the powerband. just wondering what you guys/gals think before i buy.

Picture a bicycle with a HUGE amount of teeth in the front and a tiny freewheel. The result is a bike that has a high top speed.
(aka lower rpm's/better fuel economy/greater top end)
Losing one tooth up front is approximately the same as a adding 3 in the rear.
The first kit would be drastic change in acceleration while the second kit is more mild.  How drastic a change do you really need/want?   I prefer making small adjustments when I change things.

When I started typing there were no replies.  .  . What putz said is right
One correction to what you wrote.
One changes the ratio and the other changes the ratio.
Subsequently one changes where the powerband is in relation to your speed, while the other does exactly the same thing.
Drastic or mild is the only difference.

well i like the idea of a lower powerband just dont want to buy one and wish i bought the other if ya know what i mean

Quote from: Justino on June 25, 2008, 10:01:59 PM
When I started typing there were no replies.  .  . What putz said is right

But when am I ever wrong...  

-1 +1 should be plenty on a RR

Quote from: Putz on June 25, 2008, 10:05:03 PM

Quote from: Justino on June 25, 2008, 10:01:59 PM
When I started typing there were no replies.  .  . What putz said is right

But when am I ever wrong...  

You were wrong in trying to grasp the magic of professional suspension tuning in 30 minutes. 
You should save the $20 and just let me twist some screws for ya!

use the drastic one for rfr and the other one for miller!

Quote from: Justino on June 25, 2008, 10:08:29 PM

Quote from: Putz on June 25, 2008, 10:05:03 PM

Quote from: Justino on June 25, 2008, 10:01:59 PM
When I started typing there were no replies.  .  . What putz said is right

But when am I ever wrong...  

You were wrong in trying to grasp the magic of professional suspension tuning in 30 minutes. 
You should save the $20 and just let me twist some screws for ya!

I was just doing a basic setup so that at least be in the ball park and not lost in China. I can't believe your still harping on this, let it go man, let it go.

And quit thread jacking!

Bastard.

lol now that is what i call comedy

It really depends on what you want out of your bike. If your going to the track, you should lower your gearing to get the best drive while also getting to top speed as fast as you can on the fastest parts of the track. (subtract from front or add to rear or both). It depends on the track as to exactly what you want. But for the street, they come from the factory with gearing that is set up for the best of both worlds, economy and acceleration. You start changing it and you are sacrificing one for the other. (Quick acceleration for top speed which will also make your gas mileage go down)

And the rule of thumb that I go with is 1 tooth in the front = 3 teeth in the rear. But it is a percentage so that formula isn't always exact.