The part that you turn with the key and lock the steering. What I am trying to do: Remove the ignition module and relocate it.
Reason: so I can mount the Ohlins Steering damper I found.
why not a GPR you ask? don't go there.....I still won't talk to my friend after he stripped the tank bolt.
So.
Can ANYONE help me with this process? I noticed that the bolts holding the ignition on need to be drilled out it would appear. please tell me there is a better, easier way?
Well, I assume you want to set it up race style as I have done on my track bike?
The ignition is usually held with "safety" torx bolts but your might be different. What I have done is remove the whole ignition and replace it with another RH switch on the LH side like the AMA bikes have. Basically, my key is now the kill switch on the LH bar and the right functions as it normally would.
Not sure I'd want to be without a lock on a streetbike. You know Graves sells a top mount kit right?
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http://www.gravesport.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=DMY_06R6-K
that is what I found. I can't really find anything else. I was going to relocate the ignition to directly above the gauges (where your gear indicator is.) the steering lock doesn't concern me much because I would use some sort of disc lock instead.
My only suggestion would be that you put it somewhere the key won't get snapped in a crash. Crashing and not being able to shut of the juice would suck. I'd probably make a aluminum bracket and attach it to the bolts on the ram air-frame duct. Just make sure to route it so the wires are hidden.
hey not to thread jack....but how hard was it to move the ignition to the RH kill switch? I want to do this to my trackbike too., is it simply disassembling the ignition and moving the wires?
Jenx,
Yeah, it's really simple. Just get a switch and then you route the ignition power wire to it. The other functions like a the park lamp are not used on a racebike so just cap them off. Nothing to running a LH switch.
You do however need a switch to act as a key though. Some guys run a toggle switch on the triple clamp or down in the nose. Of course you could unwire the kill switch and replace it with the ignition so when it's on it can be started. That said, I like the idea of a shut off on each bar anyway.
ya I was definitly going to engineer somethingnd bolt the sucker on. any ideas on how to get the mount off in the first place though?
You mean get the bolts out that hold the ignition?
If they're the ones like most are they take a torx bit with a hole in it. You can get the tool at a NAPA or similar. I believe they're called safety or security torx head.
Otherwise I'm not sure what you're talking about. Post a pic perhaps?
I'm not sure why it's not listed anymore but this is what I was talking about. Easier to damage in a crash but you can keep your ignition.
Try hardracing.com or something. They are out there.
Of course you could always put a heli-coil in the stripped hole as you'd have to with these and then use a scotts or something.
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none of those dampers will work. I cannot use the tank bolt for any of this. which is why I'm basically out of options. the end of the screws look like allens, but they have been filled in with some sort of metal.
Like I said, you could heli coil the tank bolt. Those things are great.
As for your question I guess you're down to drilling. I'd start with a small bit in hopes that whatever they put in comes out. If not you'll have to drill the heads off I suspect. Cobalt bits and paitence... It sucks but if there is no way to get a tool in you don't have a lot of choice. :'(
like jlavallee said it is a security bolt. You can buy the at almost any auto parts store. If not I have one you can borrow. PM me if you can't find one and I will see about getting it to you
I would just heli-coil your stripped bolt hole. You need that mount for your tank, so it should be fixed anyway. Besides it's a lot easier than what you are trying to do.
Heli won't work. tried it. tried EVERYTHING. Had to relocate the hole 6mm closer to the bars. This of course made it so the tank doesnt line up. So I then lifted the rear of the tank 4mm and its fine now...only no damper....
Well, if there is not enough meat for a helicoil then you have two choices. Weld it or use a nut sert/rivit nut. Basically, a rivit nut goes in the hole and then when you tighten it a rear collar compresses and rivits the nut in place. I included a pic because a lot of folks have never seen or heard of one.
I only mention because even if you do the damper mount race style, it'd be nice for your tank to fit right.
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hmmm, def didn't try that. I won't be able to get the tank back to it's "stock" position, however I might be able to put the damper on trying that method. the reason why I gave up before is the damper would keep stripping the screw in the new hole. complicated to explain, but it would make sense if you saw it. where can I get those things? And Adam, wanna let me borrow ur damper so I can try it ;-)
They're not too commonly used but a fastner shop should be able to get them or you could try online.
There is a company called Time sert that makes them, not sure of others. I believe that one of my suppliers sells the kit. If you want I can look and find out. Give me a call.
Quote from: yzinger on October 20, 2008, 08:42:42 PM
where can I get those things?
R&E Fastner sells them. You will need the rivet gun to install them. Give them a call and they will set you up.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rls=GGGL%2CGGGL%3A2007-7%2CGGGL%3Aen&q=R+%26+E+Fastener&btnG=Search (http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rls=GGGL%2CGGGL%3A2007-7%2CGGGL%3Aen&q=R+%26+E+Fastener&btnG=Search)
sweet. I guess I got my winter project now... besides painting my bike :-)
you can borrow mine if absolutly needed.. i hate taking it off but for you ill consider it...
Are you painting your bike? Sell me your tank and ill apy to have my dent pulled and you can have mine... Or lets trade some of my rashed ish for your good since your painting anyway...